Trad climbing nuts and hexes chart. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here.

• Trad climbing nuts and hexes chart. Jan 8, 2024 · I started climbing at the Avon Gorge, where cams are definitely not recommended as a part of a starter rack. A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. Nuts and hexes are much more useful as a beginner (maybe not hexes as much). Learn how to use nuts and hexes. I know you are going off of the measurements of what Trango and Camp give on their web site, but I've always understood that they are exactly the same item made in the same South Korean factory with different branding on them. So, back in 2016 I was taught for a summer some trad climbing mostly in Index, WA, but also a bit in Leavenworth and often climbing beautiful granite, sometimes a bit wet or muddy, or solid volcanic or sandstone, etc. Suitable for Camp Hexcentric size 4. Priced per 1. Elevate your climbing experience with our expert range of Climbing Nuts & Climbing Hexes. I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. These will give you a good range of sizes. 1 metre length. Dec 14, 2024 · Traditional climbing, often referred to as "trad" climbing, is a style of rock climbing that involves the use of removable protection devices to create anchor points for protection. While not the most common cause of incidents reported in Accidents, failures of a lead climber’s protection system occur frequently. Oct 7, 2014 · In reply to jkarran: >You can get by on a lot of routes with nuts/hexes rather than cams and a lot of people will suggest you should but really cams are more useful. Find out how to start now! May 11, 2025 · Traditional (trad) climbing requires a broader range of equipment since the climber needs to create their own protection placements in natural rock features. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. Gear up for your next trad adventure with affordable used climbing equipment. A bolt and quickdraw, a cam or nut—these are the things that keep climbers from taking dangerous ledge falls or hitting the ground. They are cheap, light and durable. However, building one takes time and needs to be tailored to your style. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. I was in the process of starting my rack back then, set of nuts and my first cam. Trad climbing standards and practices change over time. I find it interesting that the ball nuts are different sizes. For a new outdoor Free UK delivery for orders over £60 | Buy climbing equipment online from Sgùrr Shop. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than plugging cams will. We started with two sets of nuts, five cams, and a ton of sport quickdraws. However, the key difference is in the protection system. Essential gear includes a harness, ropes, and climbing shoes, similar to sport climbing. Discover everything to get started. Safe, assured, and full of endless possibilities. We’ve put together a quick guide to help you get to grips with the right gear. Jan 31, 2023 · A trad rack can be a climber's greatest pride. There are three main types of protection you can use: Active Protection: refers to devices that rely on mechanical Jun 13, 2014 · Before taking your first trad climbing steps you will need to get kitted out correctly. 5 and 5. Helmets - even more essential than in sport climbing, as there is a higher risk of falling debris in the form of dropped gear (and trad climbing is more likely to take place on chossy rock) Speciality pro suited to the style of climbing at your preferred crag, such as: Offset nuts and cams - great for flaring cracks Micro cams - great for small Along with a rope, protection is the most essential part of the climbing system. This 'hexes' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. Got any DMM Torque Nut tales that top my alien finger friends? Dec 25, 2016 · Hey guys, I am a fledging trad climber. Honestly, I appreciate the history of passive protection, and would like to stay passive. This adds a technical and mental aspect to the route. Feb 25, 2021 · Hexes and cams would revolutionize trad climbing around the world, removing the necessity to hammer pitons into the wall and potentially cause damage to the rock face. In addition to your harness, shoes, helmet and chalk bag you will also need: a belay device, slings, quickdraws, camming devices or karabiners, nuts, hexes, a nut key, screw gate karabiners and a climbing rope. 25m of cord will allow for a reasonably long loop and a Double Fisherman's Knot with a good "tail". You’ll develop the skills to confidently place and trust nuts, cams, and hexes. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. They eventually became ‘hex centric’ in that each side was of a different length. Traditional Climbing (Trad): A form of lead climbing where the climber places their own protection gear (such as nuts or cams) while ascending the route. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. Trad climbing nuts and passive protection to build up your trad rack. Affordable active and passive trad gear from Kouba Climbing. They are made of a flexible wire which is threaded through a hard 'nut' of metal. Unless you’re Alex Honnold or Cedar Wright carrying the bare minimum, a ‘standard rack’ changes from area to area. Enough to restring a Hex or other nut. > Cams aren't "more useful", sometimes they are needed on a route, sometimes (especially on beginner routes) they are not needed. Thoughts?? What are the 3 Types of Protection in Trad Climbing? Trad climbing: short for traditional climbing, it’s a style of rock climbing where climbers place their own protection, such as cams, nuts, and other devices, into natural features of the rock to protect against falls. In order to place trad gear efficiently and securely, you must Jul 10, 2025 · This course combines instruction on both advanced anchors and the basics of traditional lead climbing. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Feb 20, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. Unlike sport climbing, where bolts are pre-placed in the rock for Shop rock climbing protection from Black Diamond. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. These are a must-have for sea cliff climbing where most cracks are flared enough to make you question your regular nut placement. Colours vary. Jun 23, 2024 · Traditional climbing, also known as trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing where climbers place their own protection devices, such as nuts, cams, and hexes, into cracks and crevices in the rock as they ascend. Static cord. Despite the higher price tag and relatively heavier construction, they are a worthwhile investment, especially if your favourite climbing locations have an abundance of parallel cracks and you struggle to find decent gear placements for nuts and hexes. I have friends who say that they have been climbing for a decade but refuse to learn new things and change their systems. 5mm Dyneema. Instructing, Coaching, Guiding and Approved Mountain Training Course Provider. 1. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. Discover everything about it in our blog post. You’ll also get to practice placing gear while climbing and get personalized, real-time feedback in a May 1, 2022 · On the other hand, trad racks for lead climbing consist of quickdraws, runners and slings for clipping pro and building anchors, and an assortment of protection devices (cams, nuts, hexes, and so on), a cleaning tool, and more. Just like with any extreme sport, educating yourself about the sport of trad climbing is a great way to start. This Free UK delivery for orders over £60 | Buy climbing equipment online from Sgùrr Shop. Trad uses removable protection like cams, nuts, and Jul 10, 2024 · Trad climbing is a form of rock climbing that involves placing your own protection gear as you climb. When trad climbing, the leader must place their own gear in the rock. Quickdraws are made up of two karabiners (krabs) linked with nylon tape, they are used to connect the rope to either the trad equipment or bolts attached to the rock. Learning to spot and use good nut placements is a fundamental trad leading skill. Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. 25metres. For summer Trad climbing I love tricams and use them frequently, hexes I carry but rarely use. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. <p> Static 5. Aug 9, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . Unfortunately there is no cord strong enough for Hexes 1 and 2. Traditional Routes follow Cracks and Slabs. Shop Online at K2 Base Camp with Free Shipping. Apr 20, 2025 · All in all, whether you’re a seasoned trad climber or a sport climber dabbling in the dark arts of crack climbing, having the DMM Torque Nuts on your rack feels a lot like bringing a bouncer to a hedge hop. Explore our nut sets and stoppers from Kouba including micros, hexes, brass nuts and offsets for any crack or break. Buy some nuts and hexes but borrow your friends cams while leading. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. Unlike sport climbing, where fixed bolts or anchors are pre-placed in the rock, trad climbing relies on the climber to carry and place their own protective gear as they ascend the route. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. To be safe when trad climbing, the leader With a good understanding of trad must focus on finding gear placements skills, you can branch out from the and then select the right piece of gear indoor walls and sport crags to reach You can start trad climbing with a bare minimum of gear, and eventually build up a bigger rack. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. Jan 22, 2010 · When I first started trad climbing all I could afford were nuts, hexes, and tricams. Data sourced from Steph Abegg's website. The one Nov 1, 2023 · Furthermore, trad climbing fosters resilience, teaching climbers to confront fear and uncertainty head-on, transforming obstacles into stepping stones towards personal growth and accomplishment. They are intended to be wedged into a crack or other opening in the rock, and do not require a hammer to place. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. There are many different types of trad pro, including cams, nuts, hexes, Tricams, Ballnuts and more. 7). Surprisingly, the RPs don’t protect that much smaller of a size than the regular nuts, and aren’t any lighter. Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. Trying to master my gear placement though. Trad climbing 101 Learn everything you’ve ever wanted to know about trad climbing including the skills, gear, and popular destinations. When I started trad climbing I used to carry a few hexes to round out my rack before I could afford doubling and tripling up on some of the larger sized cams (Black Diamond C4 #1 Jun 15, 2025 · Explore trad rock climbing basics, gear, and safety tips. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. If you're starting on Granite splitters as mentioned above however, cams end up being safer and a more useful way to protect. In this style of climbing, climbers use a combination of gear placed in the rock, such as cams, nuts, and hexes, to protect themselves as they ascend up the mountain. This protection can include nuts, camming devices, and other gear that is placed into cracks and other features of the rock to catch a fall. The offset taper on these nuts open up a whole new world of placement opportunities, turning a marginal placement with a regular wallnut into a placement you could hang a bus from. Choose the right climbing protection gear to get your started with trad climbing. 5kN approx. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . Shop for top quality Nuts and Hexes and other Traditional Climbing from top name manufacturers for all of your outdoor needs. Read more about what gear you need to climb Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. Jun 23, 2024 · What is Traditional Climbing? Traditional climbing, often referred to as trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing where climbers place their own protection as they ascend a route. It teaches participants the various types of rock protection, including passive protection (nuts, hexes) and active protection (cams); and how to place and incorporate the pieces of protection into anchors. Climbing nuts exert very little outwards force on the rock, unlike cams. Quickdraws are utilized to connect these protective devices to the rock, ensuring a safe climb. Most of the force is transferred in the direction it is being pulled (in most cases, down and slightly outwards from the rock). Qualified, experienced and psyched climbing and mountaineering instructor based in Snowdonia, N Wales. To start, you need No trad climber’s rack is complete without a set of DMM Offset nuts. This can include nuts, hexes, cams, etc. Don’t climb with a lesser setup if you don’t need to. Trad climbing, often regarded as the purest form of rope climbing, demands not only physical strength but also a strategic mind and a deep understanding of rock formations. Breaking Strain when new: 13. 5mm cord that is almost as strong (1800 daN kg) as 9mm rope. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! Aug 31, 2022 · Metolius recently added to their line of passive climbing protection with the simple and accurately named “ Metolius Big Nuts “. Over the course of two days, you will learn about all different kinds of rock protection (cams, nuts, hexes, and more), when and where to place them, how to evaluate the safety of pieces you place, techniques for leading efficiently, and the principles of building a safe trad gear anchor. Friends share racks. Sep 5, 2019 · Cams, nuts and hexes are all types of equipment/gear used when trad climbing. 25m of cord will allow for a reasonably long loop and a Double Fisherman's Knot with a good Jul 9, 2023 · "Trad" is an exciting style of climbing that relies on pieces of protection placed by climbers for safety. , which are inserted into cracks and crevices as they go. With a good understanding of trad climbing skills, you can branch out from the indoor walls and sport crags to reach unique places that would Jun 13, 2025 · Trad climbing is a style of climbing where climbers lead routes by placing their own protection. Learning to properly place protection is an essential skill as you progress as a trad climber. I have about 60 nuts and hexes going up to Camalot #3, but no cams. Learn to trad climb. For a Hex 3, use 5. Nov 14, 2019 · Trad and Sport are forms of both Free Climbing and Lead Climbing Trad Climbing is an older style of climbing, focusing on adventure. For rethreading Hexes and other nuts, we suggest that 1. There are three main types of protection you can use: Active Protection: refers to devices that rely on mechanical What Is Passive Climbing Protection? Climbing protection, or “pro” for short, is any kind of removable gear that you slot into the rock to catch a fall. Mar 8, 2017 · Passive protection devices—nuts / stoppers, hexes, and tricams— form the basis of any trad climber’s gear rack. Mar 7, 2025 · Sport Climbing: Type of lead climbing where protection (such as bolts) is pre-placed into the rock, and the climber only needs to clip the rope into these fixed points. Sep 27, 2021 · The ‘standard rack’ in trad climbing refers to a standard set of cams and nuts that most people carry. Sport climbing is designed to push the athletic envelope of the sport. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Looking to get into trad climbing? To get started, you’ll need to learn the Tools of the Trad, what kit you need, and how to use it. Shop cams, nuts, hexes, and more—everything you need to build a solid, reliable trad rack without breaking the bank. Cam Comparison Chart "What's the equivalent?" Searching for new cams or piecing together a rack with a new climbing partner can feel like an overwhelming task at times, this comparison chart aims to make that easier. Suitable for Camp Hexcentrics sizes 5 - 11, and all sizes of Wild Country Rockcentrics and DMM Torque Nuts. Learn how to place trad gear, build trad anchors, climb a multi pitch, belay in guide mode and much more. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. This set is a light and affordable way to add larger protection to your trad rack. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. There are various types of climbing hexes available in many different brands, colours, shapes and sizes. With traditional climbing protection, most pieces have only one direction in which they will hold: with nuts/chocks, it is straight down; camming devices are strongest pulling straight along the axis of the device. Hexes Climbing hexes are large hexagonal shaped wedges of metal that you slot into constrictions in wider cracks, to provide protection when traditional climbing outdoors. These pieces are relatively inexpensive because they feature no moving parts. Our climbing protection is the trusted industry standard and we're always improving performance. Trad climbers use cams, nuts, and hexes, which are inserted into cracks in the rock to Hexes were an extension of the machine nuts that climbing started using for protection. Before you rope up for your first trad lead, you need to know how to place and extend gear. 5” for six-sided hexes. Hex (climbing) Hexentrics (Black Diamond 's brand of hexes) Different kinds of hexes A hex is an item of rock-climbing equipment used to protect climbers from falls. Trad climbing techniques involve using cams, nuts , and hexes to secure protection while ascending natural rock formations. To be safe when trad climbing, the leader must focus on finding gear placements and then select the right piece of gear to fit. Mar 31, 2024 · Trad climbing, also known as traditional climbing, is a style of rock climbing that involves using natural features of the rock such as cracks, crevices, and pillars for protection instead of relying on pre-placed bolts. Ballnuts are new to me in the last year of owning, but I'm finding I love them. The common denominator is that they are removable, as opposed to fixed gear that is permanently secured to the rock (such as bolts). It's for this reason that they Trad Climbing: Unique & challenging routes around the world Famous Trad Climbing Routes: The Ultimate Test of Skill & Adventure Traditional (trad) climbing is one of the purest and most demanding forms of climbing, requiring removable protection gear—like cams, nuts, and hexes—that climbers place and remove as they ascend. Course will consist of 3 lectures and 3 field days. Here’s how it is done. Oct 18, 2021 · Trad Climbing is the classic way of climbing outdoors - using some cool gear, a cool head, and a lot of knowledge. Learn about nuts, hexes, cams and other equipment you may need. Jul 13, 2024 · Our straightforward guide on how to start sea cliff climbing, including its unique challenges and the equipment you’ll need. Oct 6, 2023 · Interestingly hexes were the original nuts, evolving from the ordinary hexagonal industrial nuts that climbers first used (drilling out the thread first before attaching a nylon sling) - hence the term ‘nut’. An overview of things to look for and ways to develop your gear placements for trad rock climbing. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. Sep 23, 2024 · What is Trad Climbing? Traditional climbing, or trad climbing for short, is a type of rock climbing that requires a unique blend of physical and mental skill. However, if you’re on a route where nuts work as well as cams, you’re better off leaving the smaller cams at home – especially on routes where weight matters such as aid climbing and alpine climbing. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Learn about each type and their unique purpose in this informative post. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Jan 8, 2024 · I started trad climbing during the pandemic, the advice is now split between 'official' articles recommending hexes and people commenting 'don't waste money on hexes, you'll end up buying cams anyway'. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. In essence, trad rock climbing embodies the essence of adventure and exploration, marrying the natural world with human ingenuity and determination. Oct 6, 2023 · In the world of rock climbing few disciplines captured the essence of adventure and self-reliance like traditional climbing, often referred to as "trad climbing". Apr 14, 2021 · So, looking at these estimates above, we are looking at $745 for a basic trad climbing rack with a set of nuts, a handful of the most used cams, a safe number of alpine draws and some equipment to build anchors and a nut tool. Sport climbs ascend Roofs and Vertical walls. Can anyone tell me how to safely build a trad anchor out of only passive pro? Sep 11, 2023 · Discover the essential gear used in trad climbing, from camming devices and nuts to slings and carabiners. It would be interesting to compare real life measurements between these two brands. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. “Passive pro” is a subcategory that includes climbing nuts or stoppers, hexes, and Tricams—basically anything designed to catch you by wedging itself in place in the event of a fall. Also a good length for restringing a double loop cam such as a DMM 4C The Learn to Lead Trad Climbing course prepares you to confidently take the sharp end - leading climbs by placing protection, building secure belays, and moving decisively on rock. What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). Jul 16, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. The trad rack you need will vary from one climb to another and most definitely from person to person as each has their own way and preference when it comes to climbing. What are the 3 Types of Protection in Trad Climbing? Trad climbing: short for traditional climbing, it’s a style of rock climbing where climbers place their own protection, such as cams, nuts, and other devices, into natural features of the rock to protect against falls. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. Jun 23, 2024 · The equipment needed for traditional climbing includes a rope, harness, helmet, climbing shoes, protection devices (cams, nuts, hexes), slings, carabiners, and a belay device. Trad climbing requires a Nov 30, 2017 · One of the key pieces of a beginner's rock climbing rack, Hexes are a cheaper alternative to camming devices for protection for wider cracks. Explore trad climbing gear and protection for your trad rack including nuts, cams, hexes and abalaks ready for your next mountain adventure or chilled day at the crag. Understand the definition, history, and essential techniques for this thrilling adventure. Weight per metre: 33g. Up until about a month ago I had to borrow other people's gear if I wanted to use cams.